As we yield to the rhythm of the seasons, it’s increasingly clear that at fashion weeks and their associated trade shows, noise is continually being drawn away from the runway. Whilst designer’s collections will always garner attention, it’s what goes on beyond this, usually outside (with, or indeed, without guestlists) that turns heads and shapes opinions. I took a look at this deviation from the traditional catwalk cornerstone, focusing on the men’s iteration of these events.

Growing year on year, unmistakably, is the street style. From the immaculate suits of Pitti, to the avant-garde crowds of Paris and Copenhagen, the best dressed are documented in both legacy magazines, blogs and social media accounts. That said, to be archived in the style books is not reserved for the well clad editors alone. In 2018 a friend of mine made his way home, hungover, to his Brick Lane flat. Unbeknownst to him, in that very moment, he’d been declared by a world-famous mag as one of best-dressed at London Fashion Week. So often you find it’s those without eyes for the camera, that are most eligible!

Fashion shows are quick. By the time you’ve found your seat and sat down, the show is over and you’re angling for the door. I find I get a better idea of the collections once I’m back home, coffee in hand and can click into the runway images online. 

Global Wholesale Manager of Frescobol Carioca, Matthew Rainsden, points out: “People simply want to see more these days, than just models walking down runways. Instead, we’re drawn to events where we are able to converse and take in an incredible atmosphere, such as the ‘relay run' that running store Distance holds every Paris fashion week.”

Which leads me on to everyone’s favourite pastime – running. Not so much having its moment now, rather part of the fabric. We’ve grown from the unofficial morning shake routes of buyers, editors, brands and PRs, to organised runs and sponsored events with platforms and communities such as Mental Athletic and Your Friendly Runners. These are the social posts that conjure FOMO, not the actual runway shows. The attention is shifting and brands are constantly musing on how to show up here authentically, to drive engagement and credibility. Founder of Samutaro, Sam Trotman, writes: “The running scene is another area that has captured a broader community of people at fashion week, bringing together both industry insiders and a wider demographic of menswear from the gorp and active scenes.”

Don’t worry - it’s not just the runway or running. These moments are happening in all manner of areas and fields. Speaking with Freelance Editor Charlie Teasdale, he points out that while the traditional fashion show is still important for big legacy and luxury brands, these scenes on the side have opened the door for smaller and niche brands to engage in activations, foregoing the weighty costs of a typical show that could easily go unnoticed. The audiences for these brands, after all, aren’t running online to check out the runway shows. They’re most likely checking their favoured fashion commentators, that they follow on Instagram. As Charlie puts it: “I think out-of-industry partnerships are really interesting, such as the NN07 and Slop Magazine collab, or how Drake’s works with St John. Both of those projects feature collections and content, but also individual events that serve to align the clothing brands with a lifestyle concept, rather than just the fashion industry.”

Brands are also tapping into the broader cultural moments happening in these cities at the same time. As Sam Trotman points out, Fete de la Musique coincides with Paris Fashion Week Men’s summer edition. This has seen fitting crossovers between fashion and music, with a lot of brands creating events specifically for that day, such as Vans OTW takeover of The Sacré-Cœur Basilica last summer.

Sam also points towards the grassroots streetwear side of menswear, which sees brands capitalising off this too, especially during PFW. This can be seen with the amount of small pop ups around the Marais, creating a strong audience which has made it more accessible. For these younger streetwear brands from outside of Europe, PFW offers a platform for their audiences to connect with real life events, through special capsules and club nights that really tap into the culture. The Babylon party, in particular, boasts big guest performances.

Sam Ley Roy of Hartcopy points out that he doesn’t see this activation space at fashion weeks as, ‘growing’, rather more, ‘redefined’. Hartcopy, a social account and book dedicated to footwear and sneakers wouldn’t be going to Fashion Week(s) in the traditional sense, since the platform is not illustrative of a specific brand or buyer. However, for media such as his, things have changed. He can attend and connect, develop business leads and make contacts. Sam does feel, though, that Fashion Week can’t take a new shape without cause or reason, as taste will be sacrificed. ‘Desire’ and ‘goal’ are important factors Sam wishes to distinguish.

Gung Ho client, Keen, a footwear brand in attendance for trade shows such as Pitti Uomo in Florence and Welcome Edition in Paris, have first-hand experience watching these moments evolve. The brand itself has experience with these moments, such as spotlighting the famous Uneek silhouette with customisation activations both at Welcome Edition, Pitti and at retail partner in Paris. This was a great example of how not to overcomplicate an activation, simply spotlighting one of their hero silhouettes’ defining feature - its adaptability. Speaking with Sr. Marketing Manager EMEA at Keen, Jeroen Meijer: “Fashion weeks and tradeshows are no longer just about what happens on the runway or at the tradeshow location. These events have evolved into cultural moments that extend across the entire city. The real energy is happening off-schedule, where brands connect with communities through pop-ups, community runs, parties, seeding, and immersive experiences. These moments bring brands and communities together in an authentic way.”

This is not to say that the traditional fashion show is redundant. The designers leading the charge here are still making creative moves, the fruits of which can dictate inspiration across the industry and be impactful for many brands for seasons to come. However, it comes as no surprise that these more tangible experiences are helping to generate more brand attention for consumers. Photographer and Content Creator, Oliver Hooson, notes: “It’s more inclusive, simple as that.  For the first time, you don’t have to be ‘industry’ to be involved.”

So, the once inaccessible world of fashion week, reserved for industry attendance and hosting shows that only really pricked the interest of fashion savants, finds new ground. And it’s largely coming in the shape of real-life experiences, which Writer and Strategist, Ali Hinkins backs up: “These revolve around human interaction and despite the increasingly digitalised world we are living in, we value human connection.” 

Ali also notes that there is still space for the traditional model, though it is likely now to resonate with a different crowd, which I completely agree with. Tradition will continue, though it’s now complemented by new ground with a new POV, which is only a good thing. What’s particularly interesting is that some brands can navigate deftly between the more traditional runway moments and tap into these newer experiences. In other words, they can live in both spaces and to great benefit. For example, Gung Ho’s client New Balance has footwear treading the traditional steps, such as utilising designer collaborations for catwalk placements within shows for the likes of Auralee and Junya Watanabe, while also playing host to a custom-built skatepark with Niko June, open to the public during Copenhagen fashion week. A perfect blend of both mediums.

What these conversations have in common is simple, yet fundamental – as fashion continues to press forward, so too does the medium in which it’s exhibited. To ignore the milieu that Fashion Week is set against, would be to lose pace and understanding of its (moving) identity. Brands have the opportunity to stay close, though a simple dinner here, or run there, will no longer be enough to draw requisite attention, soon enough, if not already. Turning up with purpose is a key indicator of the brands that understand. The brands that will turn heads and shape opinion.

Photo credit: Oliver Hooson